As Typhoon Kong-rey bears down on neighbouring Taiwan, it’s a race against the elements to reach Miyajima Island by ferry, about an hour from Japan’s Hiroshima. As we approach the island, sheets of rain add to the fascination of the Itsukushima Shrine and the floating torii gate emerging in the fog. The tomato-red gate is a striking gateway to the island and demonstrates the resilience of the mainland.

Not even an impending typhoon could detract from the beauty of Miyajima Island, and the further inland I wandered, the more I was in awe of the traditional pagodas, temples and roaming Sika deer. A staircase lined with over 500 Buddha statues, each with unique facial expressions and many with knitted hats, led to the enchanting Daishó-in Temple surrounded by red and gold maple trees. At the top, the candle-lit Henjo Cave beckoned me to serenely spin the prayer wheels in this Buddhist temple far away from the crowds below.
Hiroshima Prefecture is situated on Honshu island and produces over half of Japan’s plump oysters thanks to the Seto Inland Sea, sheltered by mountains trailing down to several crisscrossing rivers, creating nutrient-rich water that imparts a concentrated flavour to the prefecture’s seafood. The village on Miyajima Island and Hiroshima City are lined with rows of restaurants serving oysters, preferably downed with a saki or two, especially if you brave a ferry to Hiroshima as a category-four typhoon threatens to ruin your travel plans.
Safely back on the mainland, I pay my respects at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum to those who suffered unimaginable horror. The endless rain made it more poignant after learning how so many perished from drinking contaminated water or from thirst when the bomb dropped. The striking UNESCO-listed A-Bomb Dome is a haunting reminder in the Peace Memorial Park on the bank of the Motoyasu River.
The weather became even woollier on the drive to Onomichi, in the eastern Hiroshima Prefecture. My phone buzzed with evacuation warnings, which seemed a bit dramatic as blue skies appeared by the time we arrived and boarded the ropeway (aka a cable car) to the top of Mt Senkoji, showcasing panoramic views of Onomichi and the Senkoji Temple. On the walk back down the mountain along the Path of Literature, I met a 77-year-old man often referred to as the “cat man.’’ The dozens of cats who visit him daily for food and cuddles were elusive on the day this crazy cat lady visited. He invited me for a tour of his home, which doubles as his art studio and rustic lodgings that he sometimes shares with travellers.
I longed to linger, but there was ramen to be slurped, but not before stumbling into a tiny bar called Beer Bar A Clue for locally brewed Shimanami Beer. Beer lovers will be appalled at my weird choice of Shimanami Cat Orange Ice Cream beer – I’m not a beer drinker, and I didn’t hate it.
Onomichi is famed for its ramen of flat noodles bathing in a stock of chicken bones and small fish from the Seto Inland Sea. The only clue from the outside of the unassuming Maruboshi eatery that something special might be served within were the queues trailing down the street. The wait is worth it, for the ramen is so hearty it bestows silence over anyone knee-deep in a bowl of goodness.
Japan has over 1,000 sake breweries, and Hiroshima’s local sake capital, Saijo, has an entire street dedicated to sake breweries. I always thought sake was made in a distillery, but I soon learned it’s brewed as a fermented alcohol with local water and rice. Visiting the breweries revealed dramatic variations in the flavour profile, with each pour ranging from delicate floral notes to the earthy character of aged sake.
Just as refined as sake is the delicate art of paper making at the Tenjin Sanshi Paper Factory in Uchiko in the Ehime Prefecture, where I unleashed my creativity during a gilding workshop. Washi (meaning Japanese paper) is made from pure water from the Oda River, along with fibres, glue, pulp and colouring. For the handful of those working in the paper factory, it’s a mediative occupation with the rhythmic beat of the paper-making machine accompanying the subtle tunes of trickling water.
Also in the Ehime Prefecture, the Hiji River is the lifeblood of Ozu, a town often called Little Kyoto. Overlooking the river and town, Ozu Castle stands proud, as it and many other historic buildings were saved from the brink of decay by Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town, run by VMG Hotels and Unique Venues. The castle offers a handful of overnight stays, but I was thrilled with my multi-level suite at the Nipponia Hotel crafted from timber, especially while inhaling the woody aroma in my rectangular Cyprus bath.
While shrouded in mist the following morning, I appreciated the wooden castle’s masterful architecture on a breakfast cruise along the Hiji River. As our boatman gently paddled our boat among herons, I indulged in a traditional Japanese breakfast of tasty titbits, including miso and fish sea bream recently plucked from the river we floated on.
Water is an essential element to Japanese culture, ranging from its use in beer, sake, paper making and ramen, and perhaps even more famously, for its onsens. Deeply rooted in the bathing culture, open-air and indoor bathing facilities are built around hot springs. There’s just one catch: in many cases, no clothing or swimsuits are permitted to enter the water.
While indulging in this therapeutic pastime at the Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama, the capital city of the Ehime Prefecture, I appreciated that there aren’t too many occasions where floating around utterly naked with strangers is not only acceptable but part of everyday life in a country as reserved as Japan.
There are direct flights from Perth to Tokyo with ANA (All Nippon Airways). I was fortunate to fly in Business Class overnight to Tokyo with a fully reclining flatbed with cosy bedding and a choice of gourmet Japanese and Western meals. Returning to Perth in economy offered an impressive amount of legroom and dishes as flavoursome as you’d find in any high-end restaurant.
WIN WIN WIN – To win economy tickets from Perth to Tokyo for travel between April 1 and September 30 2025, click on www.linkdtourism.com/jnto-ana-flight-competition.
Carmen Jenner was a guest of ANA, Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town and the Japan National Tourism Organization.