Take a detour to Mount Gambier

The ethereal underwater world at the Kilsby Sinkhole. Photo Credit Adam Stern

If you’re planning the ‘Big Lap of Oz’ or simply driving from WA to the east coast why not detour off the National Highway for a side trip to Mount Gambier. This picturesque city sits halfway between Adelaide and Melbourne in the heart of the Limestone Coast and is known for its volcanic landscape, beautiful blue lake and numerous swimming holes.

I actually grew up in Mount Gambier and when I recently returned after a long absence I was able to see this regional city through the eyes of a tourist. And boy was I impressed! 

My appreciation of the surrounding areas started with the Coonawarra region which is the area you drive through once you turn off the highway and head to ‘The Mount’. Rows and rows of vines stretch as far as the eye can see and there are countless opportunities to drop into a cellar door or enjoy a gourmet lunch.

L-R; Just one of the many coffee shops in the main street – The historic Mount Gambier Hotel has pride of place at the main intersection – The Blue Lake – Tasty morsels at Ottelia Winery and Restaurant in the nearby Coonawarra wine region © Serena Kirby

Once in Mount Gambier make sure you view Umpherston Sinkhole on the outskirts of town as well as the Cave Gardens and its sinkhole that’s located (literally) right in the heart of town. Both sinkhole locations feature fairytale gardens and easily accessible steps to allow you to descend into the cavernous spaces.

But it is the Blue Lake that Mount Gambier is most famous for and it’s still as jaw-droppingly beautiful as it was when I would visit it as a child. The lake sits in the crater of a volcano and throughout the year the water shifts through different shades of blue.

In summer, as the water warms, the lake is the most surreal deep turquoise.

You can drive around the lake’s edge but walking or cycling around it will provide you with far better views. The pathway is pretty flat and the circuit takes about an hour to complete if on foot. There are also lots of interesting information signs along the way to give you a better appreciation of what you are viewing.

Another must- see nearby is the Valley Lakes area. There’s walks, picnic facilities and lots of walk paths and, as this is a Conservation Park, it’s a pet-free zone.  For 360-degree views of the Lakes area, the city and further afield walk up to Centenary Tower. It’s a short but steep walk and the tower is open whenever the flag is flying.

If you want to get wet you can take a plunge in the Blue Lake’s little sister, aptly named Little Blue Lake, which is a 15-minute drive from town.

For those more adventurous and wanting to snorkel or scuba dive in a sink hole then check out Kilsby Sinkhole. This is a privately owned site as it’s situated in a paddock on a working sheep farm not far from town. It’s rated as one of the best freshwater dive sites in the world and has a 65 metre-deep chasm with water so clear you will think you are floating through air.

Bookings to visit, snorkel or dive are essential and the site owners provide all the gear you’ll need. There’s even chalet accommodation on site.

Mount Gambier has many other layers of interest too and you just need to look at the majestic facades of the old hotels and residential houses to see how beautiful limestone is when used in buildings. Fancy fretwork, grand staircases and sparkling chandeliers make it worth dropping in for a pub meal where freshly caught local crayfish is often on offer.

As the town is also a major regional centre the selection of shops is brilliant. Clothing boutiques are everywhere and when you need a break from shopping, there are more cafes than you can poke a teaspoon at.

Metro Cafe in the main street is a local fave.  Restaurants are also in abundance and for some topnotch dining The Barn Steakhouse and Thyme at The Lakes will not disappoint. Bookings at both venues are essential which is a reflection on their quality and popularity. 

For a cultural touch call into the Riddoch Gallery located on the town’s main intersection or venture further out of town to visit Dingley Dell Cottage which is the former home of one of Australia’s famous poets, Adam Lindsay Gordon. Just remember to check opening times before you visit.

All in all this little city has big appeal even if it is often on the wet and cool side for much of the year. In fact, there’s a local saying that Mount Gambier is where “it rains nine months of the year and drips off the trees the other three”. 

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Serena Kirby
Serena Kirby is a reporter, writer and photographer based in regional WA. With a background in public relations and tourism she’s had more than 25 years experience writing for local, national and international publications including The West, Sunday Times, Scoop and Singapore’s Home & Decor Magazine. Serena was also a longtime columnist for the RAC’s Road Patrol Magazine where she focussed on humourous and heartwarming stories about real life experiences. She now enjoys living in a small town and raising a tall teenager.