Tim Dawe cycles from Passau to Vienna along the Danube River in this series on Austria
I’m in the Bavarian city of Passau on the Danube river border with Austria – a place I know well from my youth. Then, my explorations didn’t extend to Vienna or Austria’s Donauradweg (Danube trail). Decades later and retired, I’m now joined by my daughter, for a 350km, six-day cycling adventure following this mighty river to Vienna.
A brief overview:
Day 1: first, it’s an early walk to Rad und Reisen, our self-guided bike-tour operator. We’re kitted out with bikes built like Sherman tanks weighing about 20kg. Our tour is a group of two – just us. The tour provides for someone (we never see who) to pick up our suitcases and deliver them to the next arranged gasthof or inn.
It’s a case of: “Here’s a detailed map showing bike repair shops along the way, and here’s a telephone number in case something goes wrong.”
We pedal off plunging into the multi-green Bavarian forest without a soul in sight. After 36km we stop briefly at Obernzell village for “kaffee und apfelstrudel”. My enthusiasm has us zipping along around 25km/hr – too fast for the schedule and the knees. We arrive at Neiderranna, our overnight stay, spending the rainy afternoon sampling the local beer in a riverside pub. From my riverside bedroom window, I watch the long, low tourist boats en route to Vienna – it’s only five days and 330km away.
Day 2: at remote Schlögen, where the steep-sided forest reaches right down into the water, our cycle path ends and we, the only passengers, are ferried to the other side. By lunchtime the forest gives way to the lovely town of Aschbach, then farmland and recreational camps to Ottensheim. Oddly ferries hang off high steel cables across the river, demonstrating ingenious medieval water technology and green power before its time.
Soon we’re riding alongside a freeway and a rail line, entering Austria’s third largest city, Linz, where a four-star hotel awaits.
Day 3: we ride through parklands and farms and, high above, strategically placed castles line the high ridges. We are stopped in our tracks by the beauty of Grein seen across the river. It’s everything one expects of Europe’s historic towns: castle, church, square, all enhanced by this spring day bathed in sun.
There’s time to explore a castle before being whisked off in a minivan to Bad Kreuz, high up in the hills, for our overnight stop. It’s a welcome surprise to be served a splendid dinner in a forest setting.
Day 4: crossing the river again (we do it often) at the ruins of Werfenstein Castle, the river narrows causing rapids, the stuff of folkloric tales of shipwrecks. Briefly we’re joined by local (and vocal) weekend cyclists, then suddenly arrive at the oddly named Ybbs – a lovely town quietly enjoying a sunny Saturday. We have lunch in the square with very large beers. Then it’s on to the tongue-twisting Krummnussbaum (crooked nut tree).
Pöchlarn is our home for the night. It’s named for the eighth-century Bishop of Passau, who commissioned the epic poem, Nibelungenlied. It’s also the name of every second bridge or square in these parts. Pöchlarn is a busy semi-industrial town spread across the river and served by rail. Our accommodation is opposite the train station where we dine on schweinebraten and sauerkraut. We sleep soundly.
Day 5: our morning is spent visiting marvellous Melk Abbey (a forthcoming story). We ride on through the main street (generally the only street) of the charming, picture-perfect villages of Emmersdorf, Aggsbach Markt, Spitz and Weissenkirchen plus Dürnstein, and the Wachau Valley. Dürnstein is a beautiful town, much photographed for its abbey and castle, and the centre of Austria’s wine making district.
We spend the night at a hotel in nearby Krems, a town so large it has traffic lights. Things are becoming urban.
Day 6: our cycle tour includes train tickets from Krems to Tulln. I resist my daughter’s urging to stay on the train to Vienna – an error I later regret. It’s an uninteresting, hard slog through Kornneuburg on Vienna’s outskirts.
Finally we enter Vienna. It’s been an eventful ride, at times hard-peddling and at other times effortless exhilaration. But always breathtakingly beautiful, memorable or interesting. We’ve experienced varied landscapes, weather and accommodation, enjoying friendly exchanges with both locals and fellow cyclists on our riverside adventure. It feels like … we’ve done it. Unrepeatable!
Ed: The (more detailed) adventure continues soon…
