A couple of days in Darwin is the perfect way to escape the Perth winter. With my first trip to Darwin, I’ve finally ticked off visits to every Australian capital city.
The population of Greater Darwin sits around 150,000, twice that of Bunbury.
I’m surprised it’s so built up, with apartment and hotel towers creating an impressively sparking skyline at night. According to Wikipedia, I am staying in Darwin’s ninth tallest building, H on Mitchell.
It’s easy to feel why so many people choose a Top End escape in winter. During my brief stay in August, temperatures hover at a pleasing 32°C.
With The Ghan train journey starting or ending in Darwin, it’s worth adding a weekend to enjoy the sights and smells of the markets.
The famous Mindil Beach Sunset Market takes place on Thursday and Sunday nights from the last Thursday in April until the last Thursday in October.
If you’re feeling energetic, it’s about a 30-minute walk from Mitchell Street. More than 150 food and specialty stores serve up everything from smoothies and curries to jewellery and art.
Grab a drink, listen to live music and if you time it right, Mick’s Whips puts on a cracking show at 7.30. Locals like to clap the sun as it sets, in a sign of appreciation.
I catch an Uber back to the city centre but later learn all public transport in the Darwin city area is free; for the markets, hop on the number four or six.
Darwin’s waterfront precinct is the perfect spot for a meal or drink; the salt and pepper crocodile at Snapper Rocks is better than the squid.
I chat to a couple of visitors who have stripped off to cool off in the sea. The beach is both safe from crocodiles and wheelchair accessible. Another popular spot to swim is Berry Springs Nature Park, about 40 minutes from the city.
A great way to get a sense of any city is on foot. Our group gets a personalised street art tour with Dave Collins, founder and director of Proper Creative. Dave is an acclaimed multi-disciplinary artist and has been director of the Darwin Street Art Festival since 2017.
Dave explains how street art helped rejuvenate Austin Lane, which features more than 20 murals. One of the most popular pieces is of the late musician Dr Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu, painted by Andrew Bourke and Proper’s co-director, Jesse Bell.
Visitors can download the Darwin Street Art Festival app and use augmented reality to watch the murals come to life, any time of day or night.
Dave has been a local since the age of three and suggests visits to Fannie Bay and the Darwin Sailing Club.
A bowl of laksa and a smoothie are a great way to start the weekend at Parap Village Markets, promising the finest tropical flavours and true Territory atmosphere, every Saturday from 8am to 2pm, rain or shine.
Some of the laksa vendors have long queues but I take Dave’s advice and order a chicken and prawn laksa for $14.50 from the Purple Lady. Laksa is so beloved in Darwin it has its own festival in October.
Darwin packs a lot of major events into the dry season and my visit coincides with the Darwin Festival, bringing the city alive like a cross between Fringe World and Perth Festival.
Civic Park near the Town Hall ruins – a stark reminder of Cyclone Tracy – transforms into Festival Park. There’s a Spiegeltent set up in front of Parliament House, a building with unique contemporary tropical architecture that earned it the nickname of the wedding cake.
Another major event is the annual Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair, where visitors can discover works from clothing and prints to jewellery and hats by more than 1500 artists from 80 art centres around Australia.
Happy visitors are coming and going with woven baskets and rolled prints. WA artists are well represented, and the Aboriginal Art Centre Hub of Western Australia is handing out its WA Aboriginal Art Centre Directory and Ethical Buying Guide.
If you’re passing through Darwin on the way to explore the greater Northern Territory, the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort is co-located with Ibis and Novotel, sharing a glamorous pool that would look at home in Bali.
En route to Darwin, my highlights include a sunrise Yellow Water Cruise from Cooinda Lodge in Kakadu National Park and an airboat safari over the wetlands from Bamurru Plains. They showcase nature at its finest and deliver the obligatory croc sightings.
Sue Yeap visited Darwin as a guest of Tourism NT. For more information visit northernterritory.com.
