Sacrilege! Sitting in an eatery, cheek-by-jowl with Perth’s premier seafood display, and not a fish on the menu.
The only marine morsels on offer are Exmouth tiger prawns with scrambled eggs, crispy bacon bits, fried shallots, saffron butter sauce and brioche roll ($22).
But this is brunch time. Fish land on plates from 11am.
Buster’s brunch buddy, Professor Ken, detects a sweet smell of fresh fish on ice as we take our window table at Kailis Bros Café, watching passing Oxford Street shoppers.
Next door, with an adjoining walkway, are the aforementioned chilled lobsters, prawns, oysters, scallops and massive, deep-sea fish. All laid out, ready to be sold, wrapped and taken home.
A wander through the marine animal displays pricks the mind and primes the appetite, albeit fish-free. A later brunch start, from 11am, allows diners to order from the seafood-laced lunch menu.
We noted an approaching centenary for the Kailis Bros conglomerate, founded way back in 1926, between world wars, when our Prime Minister was a chap named Stanley Bruce.
Fish ’n’ chips have been a favourite here for 20 years. Now we tackle the menu in a glorious, well-lit setting, shared with a sprinkling of brunch customers.
Instant service brings us caffeine starters, a long black coffee ($5.50) and an English breakfast tea in plunger (for a pricey $6).
Budget-watchers don’t be deterred by this pioneering family’s good name and upmarket establishment. Most prices are moderate, comparable with many lesser establishments we’ve haunted.
For just $7, small eaters can tuck into ciabatta with preserves, marmalade, Vegemite or Nutella. With a coffee to wash it down, that’s just $12.50 for a light bite.
The Kailis classic breakfast serves eggs your way, bacon, tomato relish and toasted ciabatta for an acceptable $17.
We teamed ours with smashed avocado, fetta crumble, confit cherry tomato and rocket ($21).
Delicious.
Comfort at Kailis is considerable with padded seating at tables and in booths that stretch deep down into the bowels of the building with full toilet facilities. Full points for low music levels.
The menu carries an ample dozen choices including ricotta hotcakes with salted mascarpone, berry compote, fresh strawberries and maple syrup ($22).
Both the roasted field mushrooms with rocket, shaved parmesan, poached eggs and truffle ($22) and the smoked salmon with rosemary-infused confit tomatoes, ricotta and basil oil ($23) were tempting.
Professor Ken isn’t averse to some ‘kick’ in his tucker, so sriracha chilli eggs on sautéed spinach with crispy shallots, crumbled fetta and charred ciabatta ($22) is ear-marked for a return trip.
Cold pressedd juices hit the spot at $8 each. Watermelon passion includes apple and strawberry with watermelon, while the turmeric nourish blends orange, carrot, turmeric and ginger.
Leederville’s shopping/dining strip is a short walk over the freeway from Leederville station. No parking problems. Very civilised.
5 Spoons
Kailis Bros Café,
Oxford Street, Leederville
Open 7 days, 7am-8.30pm
kailisbrosleederville.com.au
Phone 9443 6300.
